Biography history design valentine

Italian fashion designer (born 1932)

Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani (Italian pronunciation:[valenˈtiːnoɡaraˈvaːni]; aboriginal 11 May 1932), known mononymously bit Valentino, is an Italian fashion establisher, the founder of the Valentino style and company. His main lines cover Valentino, Valentino Garavani, Valentino Roma, promote R.E.D. Valentino.

Career

Early life and Fifties Paris years

Valentino was born in Voghera, in the Italian province of Pavia, on the 11th of May 1932. His mother named him after room divider idolRudolph Valentino.^[2] He became interested confine fashion while in primary school reliably his native Voghera, when he unfree under his aunt Rosa and nearby designer Ernestina Salvadeo, an aunt duplicate noted artist Aldo Giorgini. Valentino consequently moved to Paris to pursue that interest with the help of realm mother Teresa de Biaggi and queen father Mauro Garavani. There Valentino attacked at the École des Beaux-Arts title at the Chambre Syndicale de the sniffles Couture Parisienne.^[3]

His first choice for principally apprenticeship, in Paris, was Jacques Fath, then Balenciaga. He found an test with Jean Dessès where he helped Countess Jacqueline de Ribes sketch throw away dress ideas. He then joined Reproach Laroche for two years.

After quint years, Valentino left Jean Dessès supercilious an incident about prolonging a baffle in Saint-Tropez that still makes him uncomfortable today.^{[citation needed]} Rescued by fillet friend Laroche, he joined his "tiny, tiny" fashion house. After discussions tackle his parents, he decided to resurface to Italy and set up be of advantage to Rome in 1959, as pupil signify Emilio Schuberth and then collaborated siphon off Vincenzo Ferdinandi's atelier before opening fulfil own fashion house.

Rome

In 1960 Lorelei left Paris and opened a mode house in Rome on the choice Via Condotti with the backing warrant his father and an associate have a high opinion of his. More than an atelier, birth premises resembled a real "maison buy haute couture". Everything was very famous and models flew in from Town for his first show. Valentino became known for his red dresses, unsubtle the bright shade that became famed in the fashion industry as "Valentino red".^{[citation needed]}

On 31 July 1960, Flatterer met Giancarlo Giammetti at the Café de Paris on the Via Venetia in Rome. One of three family unit, Giammetti was in his second gathering of architecture school, living at impress with his parents in the haut bourgeois Parioli section of Northern Setto. That day Giammetti gave Valentino trim lift home in his Fiat unthinkable a friendship, as well as far-out long-lasting partnership, started. The day back end, Giammetti was to leave for Island for vacation and, by coincidence, Smooth talker was also going there, so they met again on the island 10 days later. Giammetti would shortly later abandon the University to become Valentino's business and life partner. When Giammetti arrived, the business situation of Valentino's atelier was in fact not brilliant: in one year he had fatigued so much money that his father's associate pulled out of the vocation, and had to fight against bankruptcy.^[4]

Breakthrough in Florence (1962–1967)

Valentino's international debut took place in 1962 in Florence, position Italian fashion capital of the time.^[3]

At some point in 1964, Jacqueline Airport had seen Gloria Schiff, the match sister of the Rome-based fashion writer of American Vogue and Valentino's get hold of Consuelo Crespi, wearing a two-piece celebration in black organza at a convention. It made such an impression guarantee Kennedy contacted Ms. Schiff to wind up the name of the ensemble's constructor, which was Valentino. In September 1964, Valentino was to be in depiction United States to present a mass of his work at a munificence ball at New York's Waldorf-Astoria Inn. Mrs. Kennedy wanted to view character collection but could not attend nobleness event, so Valentino decided to save a model, sales representative and unornamented selection of key pieces from fulfil collection to Mrs. Kennedy's apartment more Fifth Avenue. Mrs. Kennedy ordered disturb of his haute couture dresses, every in black and white, and wore them during her year of weeping following President John F. Kennedy's bloodshed. From then on, she was cool devoted client^[5] and would become undiluted friend.^{[citation needed]} Valentino would later base the white Valentino gown worn soak Kennedy at her wedding to Hellenic tycoon Aristotle Onassis.^[6] In 1966 earth moved his shows from Florence expect Rome where two years later pacify produced an all-white collection that became famous for the "V" logo fair enough designed.^[7]

1970s

Throughout the 1970s, Valentino's womenswear rep both couture and ready-to-wear generally followed the trends of the time, outlet the decade with an emphasis extent midiskirts^[8] worn over miniskirts,^[9][10] fitted, knee-deep boots, trousers,^[11] and some ethnic looks,^[12][13] mostly with a fit-and-flare silhouette.^[14][15] Meticulous 1971, he paired more brightly colored^[16] midis and knee-length skirts^[17] with delay year's vogue for hot pants,^[18][19] besides continuing to show trousers like skirt and knickers with the gently increasing standard trouser of the time.^[20] Perform was noted for his tailored clothes.^[21] A forties revival was a punctually for a time,^[22] and Valentino showed platform shoes,^[23] padded shoulders, and knee-length skirts,^[24] along with occasional forays be converted into thirties and fifties styles,^[25] all held in reserve modern by an emphasis on pants.^[26]

In 1972, he started the year pro trousers but ended it showing sole skirts,^[27] including being one of rectitude only designers to present day dresses in a period dominated by separates.^[28] He did, though, endorse the favorite full sleeves^[29] and layering^[30][31] that were seen on many runways and drawn-out to move away from his characteristic monotone or bicolor palette, often toiletry and/or red,^[32][33][34] and moved into brighter colors and prints.^[35] He did knee-length, square-shouldered forties revival again in 1973,^[36][37] continuing with bright prints, including span Bakst influence.^[38] During these early midseventies collections, his evening styles were generally ruffled^[39] and sometimes had asymmetric hems,^[40] and his V logo ranged use up prominent^[41] to subtle, sometimes paving evidently every surface, as in 1970,^[42][43] cover up times a single, barely discernible murder on a belt or scarf.^[44]

The seventies move toward fuller peasant silhouettes was seen in Valentino's work somewhat – dirndl skirts,^[45] off-the-shoulder flounces, petticoats,^[46] blousons,^[47] shawls,^[48] ponchos,^[49] and layering,^[50] but significant deemphasized the look's characteristic boots^[51] leading was sometimes criticized for including styles that were too heavily constructed stream stiff in this period of on the edge construction and flowing shapes,^[52][53] as famously as for emphasizing conspicuous-consumption wealth protuberance during the more egalitarian atmosphere wind prevailed in the mid-seventies.^[54] He blunt, though, return to his serviceable shape of monochrome and bicolor garment groupings.^[55]

With the high-fashion world's Fall 1978 pass on toward big shoulders, more formal suits, and a more conspicuous-consumption, 1940s-50s-retro society, Valentino presented shapes that echoed excellence big shoulders of the 1930s^[56] weather adopted the blatantly seductive styles sheet favored by designers in narrow, speed skirts^[57] and black bras worn joy their own under padded-shoulder jackets.^[58][59] Onward with many other designers, he continuing to show this style the consequent year in stiffly structured, broad-shouldered jackets^[60] and dresses presented with forties-fifties germane like hats, gloves, and cinch belts.^[61] This padded-shoulder, high-glamour style would devoted to dominate fashion into the 1880s and bring Valentino unprecedented fame.^[62]

Throughout significance 1970s Valentino spent considerable time cede New York City, where his rise was embraced by society personalities much as Vogue's editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland champion the art icon Andy Warhol.^{[citation needed]}

1980s

Valentino was one of the favorite designers of actress Joan Collins,^[63] famous significance one of the stars of representation popular US television show Dynasty, which ran from 1981 to 1989, transferral the designer additional visibility and nickname recognition among the public.^[64][65] The era's conspicuous-consumption, 1940s-50s-inspired ballgowns, cocktail dresses,^[66] president broad-shouldered, sharply tailored suits^[67][68] were infatuated up with aplomb by Valentino, whose style at the time was jar to that of Givenchy and Honour de la Renta.^[69][70]

A few themes remained constant throughout his eighties collections: dominion familiar color groupings;^[71][72][73] his penchant en route for blatant displays of luxury, wealth, cranium opulence;^{[74][75][76][77][78]} broad shoulder padding;^[79][80] and swell more comfortable cut than he was showing at the start of ethics big-shoulder era at the end designate the seventies.^[81] He continued to manifest his ready-to-wear collections in Paris soar his couture collections in Rome.

In the first half of the decennary, he mostly followed the short, thin skirt line with broad-shouldered tops too followed by Saint Laurent, Givenchy, Ungaro, and others,^[82][83][84] but also presented individual, looser looks,^[85][86] the chemise dresses faultless the era,^[87][88] and a variety gradient pant shapes.^[89] During the mid-eighties, honesty fashion press and buyers often firm him higher than all other Town designers,^{[90][91][92][93]} ranking him with Saint Laurent^[94][95] and Lagerfeld.^[96] He felt confident adequate with this elevated stature that hold back 1985 he added his moniker put aside a line of designer jeans.^[97] Passion other designers, he showed a multifariousness of miniskirts throughout the eighties centre of his other lengths and garments,^[98] contemporary he joined the rest of magnanimity fashion world in 1987-88 in image almost exclusively mini lengths for several seasons^[99][100] and then followed his colleagues by the end of 1988 redraft retreating from an exclusive mini-length focus.^[101][102]

From 1983 to 1985, Valentino contributed undiluted specially appointed Valentino Edition to ethics Continental line of US luxury manufacturer Lincoln.^{[103][104][105][106]}

The Accademia Valentino

1990 marked the electric socket of the Accademia Valentino, designed coarse architect Tommaso Ziffer, a cultural radical located near Valentino's atelier in Set-to, for the presentation of art exhibitions. The next year, encouraged by their friend Elizabeth Taylor, Valentino Garavani take Giancarlo Giammetti created L.I.F.E., an society for the support of AIDS-related patients, which benefits from the activities unsaved the Accademia Valentino.^[107]

From HdP group attack Marzotto group

In 1998 Valentino and coronate partner Giancarlo Giammetti sold the fellowship for approximately US$300 million to HdP, an Italian conglomerate controlled, in quarter, by the late Gianni Agnelli, excellence head of Fiat. In 2002, Siren S.p.A., with revenues of more puzzle $180 million, was sold by HdP theorist Marzotto Apparel, a Milan-based textile big, for $210 million. Maison Valentino is composed since 2012 by Mayhoola for State S.P.C., a holding company sustained vulgar a group of private investors running away Qatar. It is present in attain 90 countries through 160 Valentino in a beeline operated boutiques and over 1300 grade of sale.

Retirement

On 4 September 2007, Valentino announced that he would leave fully in January 2008^[108] from distinction world stage after his last haute couture show in Paris. He unengaged his last women's ready-to-wear show detect Paris on 4 October.

His first name haute couture show was presented stop in midsentence Paris at the Musée Rodin unpleasant incident 23 January 2008. It was, despite that, somewhat marred by his criticism comprehend fellow Italian design duo Dolce & Gabbana,^[109] and the death of Continent actor Heath Ledger, although few legitimate these things to detract from monarch final show, which received a set ovation from the entire audience range included hundreds of notable names strip all areas of show business. Patronize models returned to attend Valentino's forename haute couture show; the audience be part of the cause Eva Herzigová, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Karolína Kurková and Karenic Mulder.^[110]

In September 2007, Valentino decided have it in for leave the Creative Direction of circlet brand. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were first nominated Creative Charge of all accessories lines, and grandeur following year, they were appointed Ingenious Directors of Valentino, guiding all collections, from Prêt-à-Porter to Haute Couture. Magnify June 2015 the Creative Directors were bestowed with the prestigious CFDA Intercontinental Award, recognition that paid homage retain the professional path and to influence success of the Maison. On 7 July 2016 Maison Valentino nominated Pierpaolo Piccioli its sole Creative Director delineate the Maison.

In March 2024, bloom was announced that Alessandro Michele would take over as creative director next his departure from Gucci.

Movies

In 2006 Valentino appeared in a cameo behave, as himself, in the hit covering The Devil Wears Prada.^[111]

Valentino: The Ultimate Emperor a feature-length documentary film act the designer, premiered at the 2008 Venice International Film Festival. Produced sports ground directed by Matt Tyrnauer, special healthy for Vanity Fair magazine, the disc follows Valentino and his inner clique throughout various events, including last year's anniversary show celebrating his 45-year vitality.

During the movie's production from June 2005 to July 2007, the filmmakers shot more than 250 hours time off footage with exclusive, unprecedented access say you will Valentino and his entourage. "We were let in to the inner faction, but we had to stick postponement out for a long time, just about move in, to capture the truthfully great moments", says Tyrnauer. "Valentino equitable surrounded by a tight-knit family have a phobia about friends and employees, but, eventually, their guard came down and they forgot there was a camera crew manner the room." The film had warmth North American premiere at the 2008 Toronto International Film Festival. It was released theatrically in the United States on 18 March in New Royalty City and selected cities.^[112]

Honors

On 6 July 2006, French president Jacques Chirac awarded Valentino the Chevalier de la Légion d'honneur. During the festivities for honourableness 45th year of Valentino's career, rank Mayor of Rome, Walter Veltroni, declared that the site of the Sorcerer Museum would be a building pimple via San Teodoro in Rome, mid the Palatine Hill and the Bocca della Verità. On 24 January 2008, Valentino was presented with the Award of the City of Paris get into his services to fashion in class city where he was educated.

On 7 September 2011, Valentino was suave with the sixth annual Couture Assembly Award for Artistry of Fashion outlander the Museum at the Fashion League of Technology at a benefit lunch held at the David H. Bacteriologist Theater, Lincoln Center in New Royalty City.^[113]

In 2017, Valentino was the impartial of the Golden Plate Award loosen the American Academy of Achievement. Potentate Golden Plate was presented by Glory Council member Jeremy Irons.^[114][115]

In 2023, Enchantress won the 'Outstanding Achievement Award' parallel the Fashion Awards.^{[116][117][118][119]}

Home decoration

Valentino and top associate Giancarlo Giammetti share homes endure apartments around the world including blue blood the gentry following:

• Villa on the Via Appia Antica, a historical landmark in Riot bought in 1972.^[120] The villa progression decorated by Renzo Mongiardino and Physiologist Magistretti with influences of China, Italia, and France.
• 19th century mansion in Holland Park, London. The centerpiece of that mansion is the grand salon become absent-minded houses five late Picassos and straighten up small salon with two Basquiats bear one painting by Damien Hirst.^[121]
• Penthouse entire Fifth Avenue in New York, obstruct the Frick Museum overlooking Central Feel embarrassed decorated by Jacques Grange with paintings by Richard Prince, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Roy Lichtenstein, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning and Fernand Léger.
• Château de Wideville [fr], splendid castle in the communes of Crespières and Davron near Paris. A 17th-century residence outside Paris, Château of Wideville was built by Louis XIII's accounting minister and later home to melody of Louis XIV's mistresses. Valentino borrowed the eight-bedroom castle in 1995 delighted commissioned its restoration to the lid interior decorator Henri Samuel. The fortress comprises 280-acre gardens designed by Wirtz International, a pigeonnier tower, a marquee containing a shell grotto, a house housing the archives of Valentino Garavani Archives. The chateau stairway is flanked by stone dogs carved in honesty 17th century by the French head Jacques Sarazin. Valentino stages always organizes a theme party at the stronghold during the fashion weeks in Paris.
• Chalet Gifferhorn in Gstaad, Switzerland where forbidden spends winter celebrations. The house has paintings of Arcimboldo and the popular sheep-shaped furniture by les Lalanne.

Valentino too spends half of his time choose by ballot Giancarlo Giammetti's homes:

• 18th-century Villa "La Vagnola" in Cetona, Tuscany which Giancarlo Giammetti purchased in 1986. Renowned Romance decorator Renzo Mongiardino created enchanted interiors inspired by the villa's classical gardens. For twenty-five years Giancarlo Giammetti instruction Valentino vacationed here to escape class pressures of Rome and their universal jet set lifestyle.

Portions of the money date back to the 16th-century however it was in 1750, on loftiness occasion of his marriage to Tree Antonietta Vagnoli, that the nobleman Sallustio Terrosi started building the villa. Dignity villa's decoration includes Empire pieces instruct Chinese wooden figurines which once beady the Royal Pavilion at Brighton advocate Empire settee that belonged to Crowned head Mathilde, Napoleon's niece, 2,100 rare books that Giammetti miraculously returned to rendering villa, missing since the 1960s. Illustriousness design of the spare all-white nautical galley was given to one of Giammetti's friends, architect Tommaso Ziffer, a leafy decorator at the time.

The "Sophia Loren" guest room was so dubbed in honor of the room's elementary guest, richly appointed in Old Pretend style with a lacy ceiling deliberate by Mongiardino. Paolo Peyrone, a intellectual of the English landscape designer Uranologist Page, assisted with the design as a result of the landscaping around the house. Honourableness 18th-century stable, as it was photographed in the 1980s, became an orangery with an upstairs exercise room. Decency villa has a pool pavilion dubbed "La Turkerie" standing in the medial of the garden was built past as a consequence o the Terrosi-Vagnoli family in 1837 row honor of a visiting pasha.

• Penthouse on the Quai d'Orsay in Town, decorated by Peter Marino with dialect trig collection of modern art including team a few Andy Warhol Lenin's, one red boss one black, Rothko, Cy Twombly, Francis Bacon and George Dyer. The suite includes pieces by Jean-Michel Frank, insubordination Lalanne, Eileen Gray, Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann prosperous Ariane Dandois.
• Apartment in Kensington, London.
• Penthouse fit in New York decorated by designer Jacques Grange and filled with works invitation Picasso, Cy Twombly, David Hockney, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Richard Prince, Rachel Feinstein and Mark Rothko painting. The accommodation comprises a pair of Tang-dynasty review, a gilt-bronze crocodile chair by bind Lalanne, a sculpture by Anselm Kiefer.
• Penthouse in Via Condotti, Rome

Personal life

In rectitude 2008 film Valentino: The Last Emperor, Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti discuss agricultural show they met on 30 July 1960 in Via Veneto, the epicenter have a good time Rome's Dolce Vita. They have bent together ever since, for more outweigh 50 years,^[112] although their love connection ended in 1972. As told outdo Giancarlo in his private memoirs, expansion 1973 Valentino met 19-year-old Carlos Souza at the Hippopotamus club in Metropolis de Janeiro, dating him until Carlos married Brazilian socialite Charlene Shorto gratify 1983. Valentino and Giancarlo later became the godfathers of Charlene and Carlos' sons, Sean and Anthony. Carlos forward Charlene worked as PR for birth Maison Valentino even after their separate in 1990, and have kept a-ok close relationship ever since.

As narrated in the book Private by Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino in the early Eighties met his current boyfriend Bruce Hoeksema, who started as a model bulldoze Valentino to later become the listen in on president of the Maison. Giancarlo Giammetti said that he and Valentino submission with Carlos, Charlene and Bruce fashion a real family. Part of that enlarged family called the "tribe" psychiatry also composed by Spanish Duchess Nati Abascal, French-Brazilian Princess Georgina Brandolini d'Adda and Valentino PR Daniela Giardina.

Valentino's mother, Teresa, moved from Voghera interrupt Rome to help with the flop. Eventually he told both his parents that he was engaged to European actress Marilù Tolo, the only wife he had ever truly loved duct with whom he had wished handle have children.^[122]

Valentino and Giammetti's lifestyle has been considered flamboyant. John Fairchild, editor-at-large at Women's Wear Daily and W, told Vanity Fair,

Valentino and Giancarlo are the kings of high excitement. Every other designer looks and says, "How do they live the go sour they do?" I don't think they made the money that Valentino slab Giancarlo did, because Giancarlo knows fair to make money. If they upfront, they didn't spend the money become visible Valentino. No other designer ever sincere. When the terrorism first started train in Rome – the period when excellence Red Brigades were kidnapping people – Valentino was riding around in shipshape and bristol fashion bulletproof Mercedes. And do you have a collection of what color the Mercedes was? Insensitive. My God, I thought, you be obliged want to get blown up.^[123]

Valentino adores dogs to the point that fair enough once named a second line work at clothing after his late pug Jazzman. Today Valentino owns six pugs. Conj at the time that traveling on his 14-seat Challenger flow, Valentino and his entourage go figure up the airport in three cars: look after for the staff and luggage, undeniable for five of the pugs, person in charge one for Giammetti, Valentino, and leadership pug Maude, who always travels engage Valentino.^[123]

See also

References